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We put together this guide to give silversmiths a clear framework for choosing stones that will hold up in the studio and look right in finished pieces.
The Seven Types We Carry and Work With Most
Kingman (AZ)
Ranges from light blue to deep blue-green with black or brown matrix. One of the most widely used stones in Southwest jewelry — we carry Kingman in both natural and stabilized. Natural Kingman is harder to source and commands a premium; stabilized cuts and sets more predictably for high-volume work.
Royston (NV)
Blue-to-green with distinctive brown matrix — no two stones look alike. One of the most popular choices for makers who want character and variation. The matrix patterning on Royston is part of the appeal, not a defect.
White Buffalo (NV)
White to cream ground with black, brown, or gold matrix. White Buffalo is a calcite dolemite material — not turquoise — but silversmiths work it exactly the same way and it pairs beautifully with silver. The contrast between the white ground and dark matrix creates a bold, graphic look that has its own collector following. A strong choice when a piece calls for something that stands apart from standard blue.
Number Eight (NV)
Closed Nevada mine, last worked in the 1970s. The signature look is a golden-to-black spider-web matrix over blue-green ground — tight, distinctive, instantly recognizable to collectors. Supply is fixed and won't be replenished. When you find clean, well-webbed Number Eight, the pattern does the design work for you.
Golden Hills (Kazakhstan)
Icy-blue to lavendar blue with a choclate matrix. Golden Hills reads differently from domestic Southwest material — the color is softer and the matrix warmer — which makes it a natural fit for pieces built around an earthy, tonal palette. A distinctive option for makers who want something that doesn't look like everything else on the market.
Sonoran Mountain (MX)
Vivid blue to blue-green from the Sonoran Desert. Sonoran Mountain is known for its clean, saturated color and increasingly sought as an alternative to classic domestic material. Cuts and polishes well; the color tends to stay consistent across a lot.
Carico Lake (NV)
Distinctive apple-green to teal with a spider-web matrix that collectors hunt specifically. A statement stone that works well in bold settings. Some makers avoid Carico Lake for traditional Southwest work; others prize it exactly for standing apart.
How We Evaluate a Stone Before It Ships
We use five criteria when we grade incoming material. These are the same things you should be evaluating when you buy.
Color depth
Deep, saturated color commands the highest value — but "best" is relative to intended use. A deep Royston green isn't better than a pale Kingman blue; they serve different pieces.
Matrix character
Matrix (the host rock veining through the stone) adds distinctiveness. A clean stone reads as formal and refined; strong matrix adds visual complexity. Neither is a flaw — it's a design choice.
Hardness
Turquoise falls between 5 and 6 on the Mohs scale. Harder stones cut more cleanly and resist scratching in finished jewelry. Softer material benefits from stabilization.
Texture and luster
A well-cut cabochon should have a smooth, even surface that takes a high polish. Pitting or surface irregularity affects both durability and appearance.
Treatment status
We always disclose this. Natural stones are untreated and unaltered — less than 5% of all turquoise suitable for jewelry meets this standard. Stabilized stones are hardened with resin, which is standard industry practice and does not make them lesser stones. Each listing states which you're buying.
A Note on Treatment for Studio Work
For most silversmithing applications, stabilized turquoise is the practical choice: predictable hardness, consistent color, and easier to cut. Natural turquoise demands more care — it's more sensitive to heat, chemicals (including some fluxes), and moisture. If you're setting natural stones, use a lower torch temperature and seal finished pieces to protect the surface.
Caring for Finished Pieces
Tell your customers: clean turquoise jewelry with a dry or barely-damp soft cloth. Store it separately — turquoise scratches easily against harder stones and metal. Keep it away from chemicals, perfumes, and prolonged sun exposure, all of which affect both color and surface integrity.
1 comment
I would like to know the best way to keep different turquoise stones looking their best and lasting beautifully for the next generation. How do you tell what treatments your stones may have recieved if purchased in it’s set & created by others. Any info would be wonderful. Thank you for your stunning stones & informative creative blog. Both are much appreciated.